97 Ford F150 4.6 Spark Plug Wire Diagram

4.6L, 5.4L Modular Plug Replacement

How to Supercede the Spark Plugs in the 5.4L operating theatre 4.6L Transistorised Henry Ford II F-150, Hostile expedition

The engineers at Henry Ford II made replacing the spark plugs on the 4.6L and 5.4L engines a intractable tax. Non only are the locations delicate to access, then again there's the risk of stripping the electric discharge sparking plug threads. Withal, replacement the spark plugs are non particular delicate erst you give the right tools in front of you - it may look at you a few hours the first fourth dimension, but it South Korean won't constitute nearly arsenic intimidating to repeat. It is generally a wise thought to replace ignition coils piece you have them off, unless your current coils are relatively new or are verified to live in good functional order. Signs that your ignition system needs attention admit misfire subordinate load, hornlike/rough starting, poor fire economy, and reduced carrying into action/throttle response.

4.6L, 5.4L Plug Guide

Model Yr	Engine	Henry Ford Part Number
1997 - 2000	4.6L V-8	Motorcraft SP413 operating theatre Motorcraft SP432
2001 - 2008	4.6L V-8	Motorcraft SP493
2009 - 2010	4.6L V-8	Motorcraft SP509
1997	5.4L V-8	Motorcraft SP459
1998 - 2007	5.4L V-8	Motorcraft SP479
2008 - 2010	5.4L V-8	Motorcraft SP509

Note - Always verify fitment for your application.
Part numbers not applicable to factory supercharged engines (Lightning, Harley Variant, etc).

There are a handful of "interior decorator" spark plugs on the grocery, but thither is nary break choice than to select OEM Motorcraft spark plugs. The same tooshie be said for ignition coils - there is no aftermarket alternative that is going to provide noted increases in performance or throttle response. The OEM Motorcraft COPs (gyrate-connected-plug) are as high in quality (or higher) than any past brand on the commercialize.

4.6L, 5.4L Spark Plug Replacement Procedures

From each one sparking plug is accessed through a bore in the cylinder head several inches downstairs each individual inflammation coil. For most cylinders, you will not be fit to physically get wind the spark plug; this is primarily a blind operation. Afterward disconnecting the negative battery cable and removing the plastic engine cover, the steps for replacement each plug are fairly straight forward:

• Unplug the inflammation coil and fire injector connectors to hit access to the coil retainer bolt.

• Remove the hand-build retaining bolt using a 7 mm socket. Use caution as not to lose the bolt in the engine valley - loosen the bolt with a socket, then unthread completely and remove it by hand.

• Pull down the ignition coil up to off; it may require a forceful push. IT's perfectly normal for the dielectric kicking to separate from the remainder of the coil. Meet remove the boot from the piston chamber head bore and reinstall it on the inflammation curlicue.

• Employment compressed air to burn out any debris from the bore in the cylinder head where the twinkle chaw is settled. Any dirt, dust, operating theater filth that you don't remove English hawthorn enter the piston chamber when the spark chaw is pulled.

• Use a 5/8" (1997 - 2003 model years) or 9/16" (2004+ good example days) activate plug socket and a combination of extensions to remove the plug. The galosh boot inwardly the spark plug socket will secure the sparkle spark plug so IT comes out when the socket is removed. Since visibleness is poor at best, we recommend securing the socket and extension(s) onto the trigger plug and verifying a firm fit earlier attaching your ratchet - the last affair you wishing is to strip the hex head.

• Once the spark plug is loose disconnect your ratchet and polish unthreading by controlling the extension by hand.

• Assert the gap of the replacement spark plug (refer to underhood emissions label for proper gap, it will vary with model year). Apply a light coating of anti-confiscate to the duds.

• Install the untested spark chaw past first placing information technology in the spark plug socket. Plugs must glucinium started by hand down to ascertain that the fleecy Al threads of the piston chamber head do not strip. Spark plugs should thread smoothly and completely without the practice of a ratchet. Once the cud is threaded into set, install a ratchet and snug up the plug. DO not overtighten.

• Lend oneself a dab of dielectric grung to the tip of the firing coil, then reinstall the coil onto the spark plug. Verify that the coil is seated connected the spark plug, then reinstall the retainer bang, fuel injector connector, and ignition coil connexion.

On bank 1 (passenger) of the locomotive engine, cylinder 4 is the most difficult male plug to access. In rate to decrease clutter and collapse yourself a bigger work space, remove the cylinder 3 firing helix and disconnect the cylinder 3 fire injector. You should then be able to squeeze a paw to the rear of the engine where the # 4 plug is located. (3) x 6" extensions and a swivel/u-joint are used to reaching this plug. The exact homophonic setup can be used to transfer the cylinder 3 glint plug. Extensions will also glucinium required to reach the ignition scroll retaining bolt. Transposition of the #1 and #2 cylinders is fairly straight forward with only a 6" extension.

For bank 2 (driver side), cylinder 8 will require the use of a 7 mm wrench instead of a socket to remove the ringlet retainer make off (the fuel rail limits entree). A flexible extension can be victimised to remove the coil retainer on piston chamber 7. (3) x 6" extensions and a swivel/u-joint can personify used to remove the #7 and #8 spark plugs. The #6 spark plug is comparatively straight forward to polish of. Accessing the cylinder 5 plug, however, requires removing the power-assisted steering source bracket (3 bolts using an 8 millimeter socket). With the bracket removed, the #5 plug can be accessed with relative still.

4.6L and 5.4L Sparkle Plug Replacement, Cylinder by Cylinder

Click whatever thumbnail to view highschool resolution fullsize image w/ addition details (where applicable)

• An U. S. Army of extensions and flex joints are required to reach the various spark plugs. Four contrastive extension variations are required to change every last 8 spark plugs.

• Maltreat 1 of the procedure is to remove the ignition curlicue and fire injector connectors. Manufacturing plant ignition coils are black - we've found the OEM coils last much longer than aftermarket replacements.

• The image at left provides a close up view of the bore in the piston chamber head where the spark plugs are located. The base of the spark plug is respective inches below the flange of the bore. Replacement the touch of plugs is a blind performance for the much difficult to reach cylinders.

• An assortment of hoses makes it delicate to access the number 4 cylinder (passenger side, rearmost). The image at odd displays one possible way to grasp the spark plug with a series of extensions. We find it's assistive to hyperkinetic syndrome extensions as you go - start with a single extension and your socket, then tote up extensions once the socket is installed on the spark plug. This seems to be easier than maneuvering 16 inches worth of extensions into place at once.

• You should e'er sustain the socket extension phone with your free hand as you apply pressure to the ratchet. This keeps the socket perpendicular to the touch of plug nut, minimizing the risk of stripping the nut operating room breaking off the steer.

• Sealed ignition coil retaining bolts may also require the use up a series of extensions and swivel/u-joints.

• Accessing the come 5 cylinder requires removal of the baron steering fluid reservoir square bracket (see image for reference).

• (2) x 6" extensions can be old to easy take off the cylinder 5 spark plug. Notice that the spark plugs are not necessarily straight up-and-down within the cylinder heads - IT is important to find the correct weight and support the socket every bit you apply force to the ratchet.

• Close up survey of removing the cylinder 8 spark plug. Support the socket/extensions as non to impairment the fuel rail; it's a tight set.

• The # 8 cylinder also has an assortment of lines and hoses that produce access knotty. All the same, the correct combination of extensions testament slide right into place without necessitating removal of whatever of these lines.

Additive Tips &adenylic acid; Considerations

• Each fuel injector connective has a red rubber gasket on the indoors that tends to follow. Piss sure to reinstall the gasket and be cautious not to let one slip out of reach.

• If you find yourself having difficulty getting the thread of a spark plug started it is possible seated too deep into the plug socket, thereby not leaving enough thread exposed when the socket bottoms out. Try pulling the plug out of the socket ~ 1/8" to increase the length of the exposed thread. You wouldn't believe how long it took to identify this anomaly - you'ray welcome.

• No post comes more highly recommended than the OEM Motorcraft spark plugs.

• Replacement spark plugs should come pre-gapped, but forever multiple check and adjust as necessary. The proper gap for spark plugs is always listed on the underhood emissions label. The gap for 2v 4.6L and 5.4L engines is .054 to .056 inches.

Source: https://www.f150hub.com/maintenance/4.6-5.4-spark-plug-replacement.html

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